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It was a cleverly choreographed show, with a long opening section in white and solid black finale. However, it was apparent from the get go that Vuitton's tramp was that rare sort, i.e. one with a private education and a first rate maid, particularly adapt at ironing. Mini mess jackets and crisp shirts in linen are not good items for sleeping rough. Yet the sense of Chaplin was just enough apparent in the baggy, nipped at ankle trousers and slouch hat worn by a particularly dashing casting of models.
Vuitton also looks like it's got a great crop of new bags; even of the presentation was way off. They were obviously empty and made the young men carrying them look far too posed. Yet, other accessories did impress; from the faux war medals in silver with black gros grain ribbon.
And in a season of color clocking - from Jil Sander to Alexander McQueen - Helbers managed to hit the subtlest note with a delightfully cool shirt with shades of rose and lilac with a tuxedo wing collar.
Backed up a great soundtrack by Tindersticks, based on samples the band took from songs composed by Chaplin for "Limelight," the 1952 comedy he wrote, directed and starred in, this was a succinct fashion display, a fine personal success for Helbers

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